PARIS (AP) - The latest collection by Chloé, designed by Chemena Kamali, emphasizes the blouse as a defining piece. With its billowing shapes, ruffles, and romantic aesthetics, the blouse encapsulated the essence of Kamali's third collection for the renowned fashion house during Paris Fashion Week.
The Chloé woman, as envisioned by Kamali, embodies a sense of timelessness that draws from history while remaining modern and relevant, much like the iconic women in attendance at the show, including Jerry Hall and Georgia May Jagger. Their presence reflects a lineage of Chloé cool that spans generations.
Chloé has been a champion for women within the fashion industry, both through its design philosophy and leadership positions. In contrast to many major womenswear brands that continue to be led by men, Chloé has maintained a commitment to female designers who contribute to the evolution of fashion from their unique perspectives. With her three collections under her belt, German-born Kamali is firmly establishing her vision within this continuity.
In her recent collection, blouses served not only as key pieces but also as the conceptual foundation. Crafted in ivory and peach silk, some of the blouses featured bold sleeves and substantial cuffs, giving them a jacket-like formality. Paired with wide-legged, low-slung trousers adorned with gold logo belts, the looks resonated with a familiar bohemian ease. Slip dresses, cut on the bias and rendered in soft pastels, balanced between languid and sensual vibes. Additionally, fur-trimmed quilted coats and Victorian-style jackets layered over plunging Henley knits introduced a modern, urban edge. The accessories complemented this with oversized charm-laden handbags and thick logo belts, providing an opulent contrast to the collection's airy silhouettes.
Kamali expressed, "As I started working on this collection, I felt that moving forward is just as important as honoring the past. It is about continuing to explore, to redefine, and to evolve the Chloé woman’s state of mind." The show was staged in a simple yet expansive setting, enhanced by soft lighting that cast a warm glow over a muted green carpet, ensuring the focus remained on the garments.
Although some critics may argue that the collection approached the brink of excess, Kamali interprets complexity as an integral characteristic of the Chloé woman. "She embodies complexity and is not defined by a single identity," Kamali stated. "She is multifaceted, emotionally charged, and rich with nuance.”
Through her innovative designs, Kamali navigates Chloé into a forward-looking realm while remaining connected to its foundational elements. She elaborated, "Chloé embodies a unique balance of soft strength, blending natural femininity, sensuality, and lightness with independence and freedom. For me, the Chloé woman feels real, and that honesty and connection resonate deeply.”
Ultimately, while the focus may be on the blouse, Kamali emphasizes that it is equally about the woman who adorns it.