MILAN (AP) – Gucci has announced the departure of its creative director, Sabato De Sarno, who held the position for slightly under two years. The announcement comes just two and a half weeks before Gucci's upcoming runway show, which is set to debut a combined womenswear and menswear collection at Milan Fashion Week on February 25. In light of this sudden change, the upcoming collection will be created by the design team rather than a new creative lead.
The abrupt nature of De Sarno's exit has raised eyebrows within the fashion industry. Gucci's statement indicated that his successor will be announced "in due time." Stefano Cantino, Gucci's new CEO, expressed his appreciation for De Sarno's commitment to "Gucci’s craftsmanship and heritage," while Kering's deputy CEO, Francesca Bellettini, noted that De Sarno had "further strengthened Gucci’s fundamentals."
Sabato De Sarno, 42, became Gucci's creative director in September 2022, emerging from Valentino, where he was the fashion director managing both menswear and womenswear collections. His appointment followed the unexpected departure of Alessandro Michele, whose tenure transformed Gucci with gender-fluid, eclectic, and romantic designs that significantly boosted brand sales and contributed to Kering's overall earnings. Under De Sarno’s leadership, however, Gucci experienced a shift towards more essential silhouettes and basics aimed at broader public appeal, which ultimately did not translate into successful sales.
Kering has been facing challenging financial circumstances, with third-quarter revenues reported to have declined by 15% to €3.8 billion. Furthermore, Gucci's revenue saw a dramatic drop of 26%, falling to €1.6 billion. The luxury fashion conglomerate is scheduled to release its full-year earnings in the coming week, making the timing of De Sarno's departure particularly poignant.
Gucci’s rich heritage, originating over a century ago in Florence as a luggage and leather goods maker, has allowed creative directors considerable freedom to explore the brand's identity. This legacy began with Tom Ford's provocative silhouettes in the 1990s and has seen various interpretations since then. De Sarno's approach, which contrasted sharply with Michele’s distinctive vision, has been met with mixed reviews, making the recent exit less surprising given the current economic pressures on Kering.
This isn't the first dramatic transition within Gucci's creative leadership. Frida Giannini's exit was similarly announced in January 2015, coinciding with the arrival of the fashion crowd for the menswear runway preview. The collection that followed, led by Michele in an impressively brief five-day timeframe, introduced a new eclectic vision for the brand, spotlighting dramatic pieces like the pushover bow blouse for men—setting the stage for the renewed aesthetic that characterized Michele's work.
As the fashion world continues to evolve, the recent changes at Gucci add to the ongoing wave of creative shifts across major fashion houses. Notably, Kim Jones also recently stepped down as creative director of Dior's menswear collections, signaling a broader trend within the industry as brands seek to redefine their identities and adapt to changing market demands.
