NEW YORK (AP) The Thom Browne Fall/Winter 2025 collection, showcased during New York Fashion Week, was an extraordinary celebration of creativity and theatricality. Taking place in a darkened theater space in Manhattan, the show featured 2,000 delicate white origami birds, many of which were suspended above the runway, creating a stunning visual backdrop that enhanced the whimsical theme of the collection.
The atmosphere was enriched by a carefully curated soundtrack that included bird sounds, poetry—specifically Emily Dickinson’s “Hope is the Thing with Feathers”—and music inspired by avian themes. This immersive experience provided a fitting setting for Browne’s innovative designs, which consisted of finely tailored suits, coats, and jackets. Many garments showcased colorful bird motifs artistically creeping across the fabric, merging elegance with a sense of fantasy.
Among the notable attendees was Oscar nominee Adrien Brody, who sat next to Vogue editor Anna Wintour, while married actors Morgan Spector and Rebecca Hall occupied seats in the front row. Other celebrities included model Cara Delevingne, musician St. Vincent, and actors Cristin Milioti, Alessandro Nivola, and Cole Escola, all of whom contributed to the star-studded audience.
Browne, known for his meticulous approach to runway productions, crafted a narrative that unfolded throughout the event. This story revolved around two caged lovebirds inside a white birdcage, symbolizing the desire for freedom. “How marvelous would it be,” the notes reflected, “to be exactly who we wish to be?” The show commenced with two characters dressed as “ornithologists,” observing the scene from a desk situated near the caged birds, setting the tone for the artistic journey that was to follow.
Models paraded down the runway sporting vibrant, feathery eyelashes and dressed in a variety of patterns, including checks, tweeds, plaids, and argyle knits. True to Browne’s signature style, the silhouettes were marked by deconstructed and exaggerated shapes, showcasing exceptional tailoring. In total, the collection presented 64 unique looks, ranging from fanciful dresses and petticoats to a voluminous ball skirt. The standout elements were the colorful bird designs, elegantly rendered through satin stitch and gold bullion embroidery.
A collegiate flair emerged within the collection, highlighted by a brown varsity-style jacket adorned with the number “65,” referencing Browne’s birth year. The fashion show also included an array of striking handbags, including the designer’s beloved Hector bag, inspired by his canine companion.
As is tradition for Browne during his New York shows in February, he took a moment at the end to present a Valentine’s Day gift to his partner, Andrew Bolton, a curator at the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. This time, seamlessly fitting the monochrome origami theme, Browne made a memorable exit by presenting a bouquet of pristine white flowers.
