For the first time in their four-decade career, the renowned Italian design duo, Dolce & Gabbana, are showcasing their distinctive style in Paris, the epicenter of haute couture. This significant exhibition, titled Du Coeur a la Main (From the Heart to the Hand), will run from January 10 to March 31, 2025, at the Grand Palais, marking a pivotal moment for Italian luxury in a city often viewed as the pinnacle of fashion. Curator Florence Müller emphasizes that the exhibition delivers a clear message: "Yes, Italy does it too."
Spanning an impressive 1,200 square meters (1,400 square yards), the exhibition features over 200 garments from Dolce & Gabbana’s Alta Moda and Alta Sartoria collections, in addition to 300 handcrafted accessories and various objects, including traditional Sicilian ceramics. Visitors can explore 10 themed rooms, each meticulously designed to highlight the artistic foundations of Dolce & Gabbana’s creations.
Baroque elegance characterizes the collection, which is unapologetically maximalist and richly layered with intricate embellishments. Among the standout pieces is a captivating gown inspired by Venice's Murano glass, adorned with glass mosaics from Orsoni Venezia 1888, the same glassmakers responsible for the shimmering mosaics of St. Mark's Basilica. Müller aptly describes this piece as “a sculpture on textile — pure craftsmanship elevated to art.”
Opera serves as the centerpiece of the exhibit, with a stunning black velvet gown embellished with gold that embodies the dramatic essence of Bellini’s *Norma*. Additionally, a romantic blue dress designed for Verdi’s *La Traviata* flows gracefully, its tulle layers evoking themes of love and loss. Iconic figures associated with the brand, including Sophia Loren and Naomi Campbell, are immortalized in grand paintings that reflect the allure and cultural impact of Dolce & Gabbana.
The exhibition also features live demonstrations by five seamstresses from the Milan atelier of Dolce & Gabbana, who work on bodices, bustiers, and corsets in real-time, offering visitors an intimate glimpse into the artistry involved in high fashion. Müller states, “This seamstress is sewing lace to form a dress, while another is draping fabric by hand. It’s extraordinary. This is not just fashion — it’s art.”
Sicily, the birthplace of Domenico Dolce, is a focal point within the exhibition. The display incorporates traditional Sicilian hand-painted carts, ceramics, and lace-making techniques, emphasizing the deep cultural roots of the collection. Müller highlights the global influences often overlooked in fashion history, noting how luxury goods and artisans traveled more extensively than many may realize. For instance, the silks and brocades used in the opulence of Versailles Palace originally came from India, illustrating the extensive exchanges that have shaped couture.
Historically, Italian and French fashion have been perceived as rivals, particularly given the dominance of French conglomerates like LVMH and Kering, with Paris Fashion Week often regarded as the pinnacle of the industry. However, this exhibition challenges that notion, showcasing the interconnectedness between these two rich traditions. Both are sustained by the invaluable contributions of les petites mains — "the little hands" — the skilled artisans whose dedication and precision turn couture into an art form.
Müller reminds us that while techniques may vary, such as Sicilian lace traditions versus Parisian tailoring, the essence of couture is unified through the human touch. This exhibition beautifully illustrates the shared creativity and craftsmanship found in both French and Italian ateliers, whether in a Sicilian workshop or a Parisian salon.
Beyond haute couture, the exhibit also highlights the extensive reach of "Made in Italy." Everyday items, such as Smeg refrigerators and coffee presses, receive a unique Dolce & Gabbana transformation, showcasing Italian craftsmanship's ability to elevate even functional objects into pieces of art. Müller concludes, “Fashion is art. It’s meant to inspire, to dazzle, to make us dream. Whether you wear it once or never, its value lies in its beauty, not its practicality.”
In response to inquiries regarding the impracticality of some dazzling gowns that appear unwearable in daily life, she simply smiles and asks, “So what?” This perspective encapsulates the spirit of the exhibition, celebrating the artistry and creative expression inherent in fashion.
